Now having labored in a battery lab, I by no means gave a lot credit score to quick ‘n straightforward conductance testers that we examined. Why? As a result of after I did a REAL capability take a look at and a REAL load take a look at, the conductance testers have been shut at greatest.
I purchased the TOPDON BT200. It was on sale at Amazon and solely $5 extra then the BT100, the identical tester, however solely does 12V as a substitute of 12V/24V, not that I can see a lot use for the 24V system.
And the readings from my authentic and failed R1200 GS Journey battery that I totally charged…
I don’t know how they calculate Well being at 2% and 32A when you will have a 230A SAE ranking.
As you possibly can see the “state of cost” of the battery is at 100% and 12.90V which actually is meaningless with out additional information. It’s the open circuit voltage with no load (starter, headlights, ignition-on) utilized when utilizing a Digital Multi Meter on the battery.
The Inside R (reisitance) tells all of it and that’s principally what you’re doing with a REAL load tester, the place you would be trying on the voltage drop to a minimal over a 15 second interval whereas cranking the starter (the very best load in any car, particularly on a really chilly morning). And 76.92 m Ohm is a really achieved battery in relation to inner resistance.
So how did I do know my battery was achieved earlier than shopping for my tester?
1) seeing that the battery voltage dropped from about 12.6V to 8V, then 7V after I simply tried to start out it after which simply with the ignition on. No capability!
2) charging the battery and famous that it went from a comparatively useless battery to 14.4V in a couple of minutes utilizing a 1A battery charger.
